Here's how to deal with every kind of breakout (2024)

Okay let's be clear, blemishes and acne are totally normal and something we all experience, but we totally get that sometimes you just want to snap your fingers and make them disappear. Annoyingly, it's not always that easy.

When it comes to dealing with acne and breakouts, there isn't a one-size-fits-all. Each type of blemish requires understanding in order to select the very best spot treatment. However when zits do crop up, they don't exactly say hi and introduce themselves (rude), so that's where we come in...

We've decoded the most common types of spot - from what they look like, to where they'll usually show up - along with a couple of the most effective treatment options for dealing with each particular type of blemish. From whiteheads to blackheads and even cystic acne, here's how to pinpoint and treat every kind of breakout.

Blackheads

Blocked but open pores that take on a dark colour due to oxidisation (not dirt).

HOW TO TREAT: All spots are the evil love child of overactive oil glands and dead skin cells - a paste-like concoction that blocks pores and acts as a breeding ground for bacteria. “Thorough cleansing and an exfoliating acid used once or twice a week will help dampen down inflammation, reduce sebum production and kill the acne-causing bacteria,” explains aesthetician Dr Kemi Fabusiwa. If you’re worried about your skin’s sensitivity, ease in with mandelic acid – it’s one of the gentlest types and worth considering if you have dark skin prone to post-inflammatory pigmentation.

Whiteheads

The closed version of blackheads. If you listen carefully you’ll hear them whispering “squeeze me,” but do not engage.

HOW TO TREAT: Doing a gentle, sulfate-free double cleanse is a good habit for anyone to get into (scrubbing or “drying out” blemishes will only make things worse). Consultant dermatologist Dr Adam Friedmann recommends products containing benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid to un-plug pores and see off acne-causing bacteria. Spot stickers, although not a long-term fix, are great for people prone to picking, and also contain hydrocolloid, which can help speed-up the healing process of an already open or oozing whitehead.

Papules & Pustules

We’re moving into acne territory now – where breakouts tend to be more inflamed, often with redness and a tempting white tip.

HOW TO TREAT: Androgens (referred to as the “male” hormone) play a key role in stimulating pores to produce excess sebum. “Their effects are more noticeable just before your period,” explains Fabusiwa, “when female hormone levels drop lower, tipping the balance and causing breakouts.” It’s best to speak to your GP about recurring acne, but the same skincare requirements still stand: gentle, anti-bacterial and pore clearing. Applying a retinol before bed will speed up skin cell turnover, pushing the healthier, better-functioning ones up to the surface. But don’t forget your (oil-free) SPF! Active ingredients tend to sensitise the skin, and avoiding the inflammation caused by UV rays (even in winter) will go a long way.

Nodules and Cysts

Ouch, in a word. These are the deep painful eruptions, with nodules tending to be hard red lumps, and cysts filled with pus.

HOW TO TREAT: “Cystic acne should always be treated with prescription strength medication,” stresses Fabusiwa. “There is a very high risk of scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation when left untreated.” Seek out hydrating and calming ingredients such as niacinamide, ideally within a light serum or gel formula. It’s also worth remembering that acne isn’t just a “surface” issue to be tackled, and that diet, stress and illness can all be potential acne aggressors, because they trigger inflammation in the body. “The better you look after yourself the better your chance of clearer skin,” confirms Friedmann. “Everything from a healthy lifestyle and good diet to stress avoidance will help.”